September 11, 2011 | 0 comments

9.5.11 - 9.10.11 SURF!!!

9.5.11 - Labor Day Swell
Jacob, John (our friend that lives in Boston, but works for a California company, Solar City for two weeks) and I went to Montara at first and it was so choppy and out of control. I dropped into 2 crazy waves and ended up tumbling over the wave. Jacob always seems to be able to catch waves wherever he goes! John got tossed by the waves and decided he didn't feel like taking a beating. He waited for us on the beach until we relocated to LM. 

LM was much more crowded but mellow with knee to waist high swell. Surfing in crowds at LM isn't too bad though. We are always able to find a peak that works and able to catch lots of waves without any hassle.

We all had a much better time and caught a ton of fun waves. John told us the last time he surfed was when he was visiting us back in March! He has a board and suit back east, but says he isn't as motivated now since we aren't always calling him up to go - haha!

9.7.11 - Clean, Mellow, Fun LM
Jacob, John and I went to LM before work. We found some fun waist high peelers. Lately, I have been using my 8'6 WRV longboard a lot more since it is summer swell. I am sure I will be using my hybrid Tweety P more often with the upcoming fall and winter swell.

John had a blast and catching tons of waves. He said that surfing is the best way to start the work day and I couldn't agree with him more!

Since LM was really small, we decided to go to Montara. When we arrived there was no one out, no wind, and glassy swell. We quickly got ready and paddled out.

At first, the swell was chest high and glassy. I caught 2 lefts and 1 right . Throughout the session, the swell was building and so were the number of surfers in the water. Jacob and I took off on one wave together that we both tumbled over the falls. We both have bruises on our shins to prove the beating from that wave.

John was hesitant to take waves since they were getting bigger and what he said "beyond his limits."

Jacob called last wave of the day and caught his right away. He caught a sweet head high left right down the line. 

Right after Jacob caught his wave, I saw a perfect left coming too! I set myself up perfectly and paddled right into the BEST WAVE OF MY LIFE!!! I quickly stood up and felt the 9'0 maroon platoon shoot quickly (probably the fastest wave I have ever felt) go down the wave. I could hear Jacob excitedly hooting and hollering for me from the shore. I also saw some water shooting over my head for like 2 seconds and all I could think was, "Am I in the barrel?" It may have only been for 2 seconds but it was the coolest feeling I have ever felt in my life.

From Jacob and John's perspective, they said that I stood up on the peak of the wave and shot down the steepest part of the wave. Jacob thought I was going to bail, but when I was on the wave I felt at ease and no hesitation. They said the wave looked huge and was an overhead and a half wave (note that I am short) but still would have been overhead on Jacob. Jacob said it was definitely the best wave he has ever seen me ride and we have been surfing together for 10 years.

When I got out of the water, I was screaming, shaking and could barely breathe from all the excitement and adrenalin pumping throughout my body. It was the best feeling I have ever gotten from surfing in my life. Waves like this are why I am addicted to surfing! I don't think any other activity makes me feel this way. I was literally filled with adrenalin all day and night. I couldn't stop replaying the wave in my head and how perfect it felt. I still can't stop thinking about how I want another wave just like that one or better! Surfing seriously makes me so happy!!! It is truly indescribable!!!

9.10.11 - Clean, Glassy, Gentle NH Swell
Jacob and I flew to Boston to go to the 7th annual GBQ because we have never missed it and we weren't going to miss this year either. September and the Fall in New England happen to be the best time of year to surf. Summer crowds dwindle, water is still warm from the summer and hurricane swells arrive.

We heard the surf was really good and trying to figure out how we were going to get surfboards. During dinner at a local seafood restaurant, we ran into John, my surf teacher and mentor from when I was 13 years old. I still consider him my mentor and was so happy that he joined Jacob and me for our first surf as a married couple after our wedding. It was like everything came full circle at that moment because I was with John, my teacher and Jacob was there as my husband and I taught him how to surf. John is probably the most stoked guy I know. He is a really great surfer too.

John told us to come over to his house and take his boards in the morning from his garage and that we could keep them until we return to California. He lent us a 9'0 Silence board shaped by our mutual friend, Bill and a 7'6 CB Classic. After we picked up the boards, we headed to Straws at Jenness Beach. We arrived around 7am and there were only a couple other surfers out with a sunrise.

NH Sunrise

We caught clean glassy shoulder high swell. The waves were really gentle and the shape of the waves were beautiful. We met a really stoked woman in the water and she was telling us the swell has been so good lately. She was filled with the aloha spirit! Our friend Denise was suppose to join us, but she wasn't able to get to NH in time.

Jenness Beach

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,


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