June 23, 2012 | 0 comments

Surf Bounty!

Jacob and I really made up for our sick week and surfed 4 times this past week. The wind has also seemed to die down. Summer is here! 

6.19.12 - Mother Ocean is by far the best netti pot!

Time: Dawn Patrol (6:45am)
Where: LM
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Shoulder High
Swell Condition: short shoulders with a lot of close outs
Board: 9'0 Maroon Platoon

Session Highlights:
Last week, I caught a head cold and gave it to Jacob. Our colds limited us from going into the ocean, but we finally decided we couldn't take it any longer! 

I was able to make it into the line up easily and I even caught a wave right away. It felt really great to be back in the ocean and surfing again. At times, I was having trouble breathing because I still had a lot of head congestion. I could also feel a lot of pressure on my chest when I was lying down on the board. The ocean is a great netti pot! It cleaned me out and I could breathe better afterward. I knew I was weak and was happy to have my longboard.


6.20.12 - Happy International Surfing Day!

Dawn Patrol (6am - Cynthia wanted to get out early and beat the crowds!)
Where: LM
Surfed with: Jacob, Perrin, Cynthia, Darren and we met Marcia
Swell Height: Shoulder - Head High
Swell Condition: Right Shoulders and Close Outs
Board: 9'0 Maroon Platoon

Session Highlights:
The surf crew met up to celebrate International Surfing Day (ISD). Perrin said she wasn't going to be able to make it and said her surfboard was in the shop getting fixed. I said she couldn't miss ISD and offered her to borrow one of our boards. She said she was heading up to Tahoe in the morning and couldn't make it down from the East Bay. I told her she could stay the night at our house since we live five minutes from the ocean. By offering both room and board, I finally convinced her to go surfing. I am an enabler for surf and fun!

We woke up at 5am to meet everyone at the beach at 6am. It takes me 20-30 minutes to wake up! We met at LM and it didn't look that great. However, we all found waves and had a great time. It was a beautiful morning with the sun rising over the mountains. I am glad we surfed early because by the time we got out out at 7:45am there was a big crowd.


 6.22.12 - Lovely Montara

Time: Dawn Patrol (7am)
Where: Montara
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Chest - Shoulder High
Swell Condition: Clean Mellow Right and Lefts
Board: 9'0 Maroon Platoon

Session Highlights:
Jacob and I paddle out into the empty ocean. The sun was hiding and the fog was creeping over the Montara mountains. The waves were mellow longboard waves. We enjoyed having the ocean to ourselves and started off the morning with fun waves.

New beach art in the north end Montara parking lot

The shore pound got me on the way back in and I ended up with sandy hair.

6.23.12 - Home Sweet Rockaway

Time: Late Afternoon (4pm)
Where: Rockaway
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Waist with an Occasional Chest High
Swell Condition: Mushy Right and Lefts
Board: 8'6 Red Wonder

Session Highlights:
Jacob and I live in Rockaway Beach and we have only surfed there 1 time before. The previous time was really intimidating. It was on a large swell with a lot of current. It really spooked me and has made me really hesitant to surf there again. Rockaway can be dicey and dangerous because of the large boulders and the rip currents.

It was really fun on a small swell. I am glad we surfed there since it is 2 minutes down the road from us. Some people say I should be scared of Montara, but Rockaway definitely seems a lot more dangerous to me. I guess if I surf Montara and have tried the Pacifica Pier, I should be able to surf Rockaway on a bigger swell. Surfing there today gave me more confidence. Maybe I will try it on a bigger swell…we'll see.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,


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