July 15, 2012 | 0 comments

Supporting the Stoke

7.11.12 - Happy Birthday Chris the Red!

Time: DP (6:30am)
Where: Bunnies
Surfed with: Jacob, Chris the Red, Cynthia
Swell Height: Shoulder High
Swell Condition: Some Clean Shoulders and Closeouts
Board: Tweetie P 7'10

Session Highlights:
Chris told us he wanted to do a dawn patrol session before work for his birthday. He lives and works in the East Bay (about 45 minutes from the ocean) so we invited him to stay at our house. 

Cynthia arrived earlier than us and gave us a report. JT was flat and Bunnies was chest to shoulder high with some clean shoulders and close outs. The clear decision was to go to Bunnies. We got ready in the fog and kept singing Happy Birthday to Chris. I think he enjoyed it.

Jacob, Chris and I went for the same wave. I was in the middle and realized I didn't want to go for it because I couldn't tell where they were going to end up. They ended up splitting the peak and caught a birthday party wave!

My last wave of the day was a swift left that took me all the way in. Fun morning!


Birthday Boy!


Bunny at Bunnies


7.14.12 - Chilly Aluminum Foil

Time: Mid Morning (9:30am)
Where: Bunnies
Surfed with: Jacob, Perrin
Swell Height: Waist - Chest High
Swell Condition: Some Clean Shoulders and Closeouts
Board: Tweetie P 7'10

Session Highlights:

Gloomy, foggy and conditions were minimal. Perrin and I planned to meet up because she was itching to go. She told me, "I've only surfed twice in the past 3 weeks. Feeling parched!"

We drove past all the usual spots and didn't see any exciting swell action. LM was crowded with 1 foot crumbly junk, Montara looked shifty and closed out, JT was completely flat but thankfully, Bunnies was empty and had swell.

I caught 2 waves right away and then the wind started to shift and made ocean look like crumply aluminum foil. However, we caught a bunch of waves and was a lot more fun that we expected. I also enjoyed being in the line up with awesome people.

Lessons learned from today's session:

1. Low to no expectations = Fun Surf Session

2. Just keep paddling (in surfing and in life)

3. Surfing has taught me patience (as far as waiting for the right wave to catch and learning how to surf) and this has translated into my every day life. (from Perrin)



Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird



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