Jelly Belly Surf Sessions:

10.13.12 Cold Water Struggles

Time: Mid Morning
Surfed with: Jacob, Risto (Chris the Red)
Swell Height: Chest
Swell Condition: Some clean shoulders, mostly close outs
Board: 7'0 Jelly Belly

Session Highlights:
I took out my new surfboard, Jelly Belly.  It requires a lot more paddling power than all my other boards. I caught a wave right away and was so stoked! I caught another really good one, but the others were giant close outs! It was challenging, but fun!

10.14.12 Cold Water Struggles

Time: Mid Morning
Surfed with: Jacob, Risto (Chris the Red)
Swell Height: Chest
Swell Condition: Some clean shoulders, mostly close outs
Board: 7'0 Jelly Belly

Session Highlights:
I took out my new surfboard, Jelly Belly.  It requires a lot more paddling power than all my other boards. I caught a wave right away and was so stoked! I caught another really good one, but the others were giant close outs! It was challenging, but fun!

Stoked after catching fun waves on Jelly Belly
(thanks for the picture Cynthia)

Ride waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

10.3
We got up for DP to surf with Chris Butler. Chris aka: Crib use to live in SF bay area, but he and his wife, Piyada recently relocated to Hawaii. They use to work at Stanford but now work at Hawaii Pacifica University. We met him in Waikiki and surfed Canoes. After he left, we decided to paddle out to 1st peak and caught some really beautiful long waves. I love surfing without a wetsuit!

We were invited by James and Jackie to have dinner at Jackie's Uncle Randy (aka: Pineapple) house. We had a homemade Hawaiian feast. Jackie gave us a ginger flower and tea leaf leis made by her grandmother. Uncle Randy has a lemon , tangerine and orange tree and took some back to our condo. We also had fresh starfruit and jabong from Jackie's grandmother's tree. It was an awesome night!

10.4
We got up for DP at 1st peak again, but the waves were not as good as yesterday. We still caught some nice ones, but they were not consistently rolling in. We saw a sea turtle so that made the session better.

10.5
We didn't go surfing today, but we had Leonard's malasadas (yum!!), met Jackie's grandparents and went to their house to get fresh fruit off their trees. We wish we could grow vegetables and fruits as easily as they can. It's hard being on the coast with cooler air.  We are so jealous of their plentiful fruit tree oasis. It is absolutely gorgeous and amazing! 

Jackie, James, Jacob, Uncle Pineapple and I went to on a hike to Manoa Falls. It was beautiful and the forest is so lush! After our hike, we met grandpa and grandma at Helena's Hawaiian Food. They have the most amazing Pipikaula short ribs. HOLY JABONG the food is amazing and authentic Hawaiian food. I feel so lucky that we hung out with locals and that they were so willing to show us around to the best local places.

10.6
We surfed for 4 hours with Chris Stolte. The waves were really fun! He is also here for the Aloha Ruby Conf. We went to Canoes at first, but it was too crowded for me so we paddle out to 1st peak again. I met a local guy, Monty and he was super nice. He thought I was from Hawaii but I told him "I wish!" When I told him I am I from San Francisco he said, "San Francisco surfers are the real surfers because they have guts to surf in cold water!" 

After surfing, we met up with Jackie and James and snorkeled at Hanauma Bay. The bay is really beautiful and the reef is filled with beautiful fish. A sun filled day.

10.7
We didn't go surfing today. We were going to, but I didn't feel that great. I think I got too much sun the day before. After I slept for awhile, we managed to go to the Hawaii Fishing and Seafood Festival. We ate Big Island Abalone and other assorted seafood. After the festival, we went over to Jackie's Aunty Sheryl's house for another feast! We met more of her family. Her family is so kind and took us in.

10.8
We went for a quick DP surf before Jacob went to Aloha Ruby Conf. I also had a ton of work to do. The swell was really mushy and bumpy. It was easier for us to get out of the water today.

10.9
We met up with Denis (aka: @AREAsurf on twitter) for DP and surfed Diamond Head, Cliffs. I had only ever talked to him via Twitter so it was great to meet him! He is awesome! We had a great session and caught a lot of beautiful waves. I love reef breaks! The waves roll perfectly off the reef.

10.10
We met up with Stolte, Wes and Rich (all of which were at the Aloha Ruby Conf) for DP and surfed Canoes and then paddled out to 1st peak before we flew back to the mainland. Monty was already there and we said our good bye. He is super nice!

I caught one of my best Hawaiian waves. I was in really good position and the wave peaked up off the reef. I only had to do one stroke into the wave and I on it. The waves are mellow with fun steeper drops.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

Session Highlights:
Seemant hadn't been surfing since January due to a neck injury. He wanted to get back out and Jacob wanted to go to Santa Cruz. We went to Capitola first but the tide was too high. The swell was not happening there. We drove over to The Hook and joined a large crowd of beginners on wave storms and foamies.

I met a guy named, John in the water and he said he grew up on the east coast, but had been in California for 30 years. We reminisced about hurricane season. We caught some party waves together. The tide was high making some crumbly waves, but caught a lot of fun ones. 

Seemant caught his best wave since he started learning! I was so stoked for him. He caught another one after that too!

9.24.12 Happy Birthday Marcia!
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob, Marcia
Swell Height: head high
Swell Condition: lefts with long lulls
Board: 7'10 Tweetie P

Session Highlights:

When I paddled in at LM, Marcia was there! She arrived early for her birthday surf before work.

Right when I got into the line up after saying hello to Marcia, I caught a left overhead high wave that made my whole session. I caught a few more, but not as good as the first wave of the day.

9.25.12 LM
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob, Marcia, Ed
Swell Height: Waist  - Chest
Swell Condition: cleaner right and left shoulders 
Board: 7'10 Tweetie P

Session Highlights:

Marcia told us that she was going to paddle out at LM for DP again. We decided to go out too. The swell was a little smaller at first, but as the tide changed the waves quality got a lot better. 

There were a lot of people out, but got a lot of good waves!

9.29.12 Humble Pie
Time: Mid Morning
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Head
Swell Condition: close outs
Board: 9'0 Maroon Platoon

Session Highlights:
Caught two waves but mostly whomping close outs throwing me off the wave.

Jacob and I are heading to Hawaii from Oct. 2-10! Looking forward to our Hawaiian Adventures :)

Session Highlights:
Jacob, Darren and I went out to check the waves in San Mateo county and everything was blown out. We traveled down the lonely coast and everything looked crappy. At that point, we decided to go to Santa Cruz and commit. We ended up at The Hook. There was a large crowd, but we all found some great waves.

My wave of the day was on a head high right. Jacob and Darren said they saw me catch it. I had to do a couple long swooping bottom turns to miss the other surfers. Thankfully, no one dropped in on me and I was able to ride the wave all the way to the shore from the point. It was worth the paddle back. This wave will definitely be put in as one of my most memorable waves.

9..11 LM
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Waist to Chest
Swell Condition: Fast quick drops into closeouts
Board: 7'10 Tweetie P

Session Highlights:
We wanted to surf our favorite spot, but it looked really big and heavy. We ended up at LM and it was an ok session. Jacob brought 7'6 Blue Squirrel instead of 9'8 Verde. I was shocked! He said it was a good change and challenge. He was glad he brought it since the waves weren't that great. The waves were quick, fast and zippy drops. I am excited to get my new 7'0 board so I can catch the wave faster and move down the steep wave quicker. Tweetie P is fast and gets the drop but sometimes the length makes me stall on the wave.

9..12 NEMO
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob, Darren, Cynthia
Swell Height: Waist
Swell Condition: Cleaner shoulders but still a lot of close outs
Board: 7'10 Tweetie P

Session Highlights:
The swell dropped a little with a cleaner shoulder. Cynthia brought her 5'4 fish "Nemo" which is as tall as me. Jacob and I both tried it and WOAH was it hard! I felt like a kook and sloppy. I felt like I was learning how to surf again. When I sat on the board, it sunk disappearing into the water. I barely caught 2 waves on it and my arms were so tired from paddling. I felt like this board would be a good size for a child. Even though I completely sucked on it, I want to try it again. I was humbled and challenged, but had blast on it.

We were also suppose to meet up with Zach (whom I have never met. We know him via Twitter) but he was no where to be found. We are starting to think he is "the phantom of the ocean."

9.16.12 Back in New England
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob, Ed
Swell Height: Thigh
Swell Condition: Clean long rights
Board: Ed's 8'4 hull (yellow fatty)

Session Highlights:
Jacob and I went back to the east coast to visit our family and friends. We hadn't seen them since Christmas time. I am very close with my family and friends. My friends become like family to me. I have known some of my friends since grade school. It was so great seeing them all. I have gotten some friends to move west, but I want all my family and friends to move west (definitely won't happen, but I can dream). I really miss them all a lot. Thankfully, we have made some amazing friends in California that are becoming like family. I have told Jacob, "When you become my friend, there is no escaping! You are my friend forever." I really value my relationships with people.

Anyway, Jacob contacted his old boss, Ed. We use to surf with him a lot when we lived in Massachusetts. We met him at Nahant in Massachusetts and he brought boards for us. He brought an 11 foot hull shaped by Andreini for Jacob and an 8'4 yellow hull shaped by Ryan Lovelace for me. I shall call the 8'4 "yellow fatty". Jacob loves this 11 foot board and is probably going to get one very similar to it. The board I rode was really wide with thin rails. It was a different experience, but was easy getting into the wave which allowed me to catch a lot of nice long rights. The swell was small, but the quality was perfect…glassy, peeling with all rights.

9.17.12 Straws, NH 
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Chest high
Swell Condition: Clean long rights
Board: Ed's yellow 8'4 board

Session Highlights:
Since we don't have boards on the east coast, Ed let us borrow his boards for a couple more days. We woke up early to surf Straws in New Hampshire. When we got there, the line up was filled with Stand Up Paddle boarders (SUP). NH has really embraced SUPs. It makes sense because NH doesn't get swell all year round. SUPing is a good alternative to surfing on flat days. However, when there is swell, I wish there were less SUPs only because it can be dangerous on a heavier swell. 

The line up wasn't crowded, but the swell was bigger and there was a nice right off the sandbars. It was glassy, peeling with rights and lefts.

I will always love these surf spots. New Hampshire is where I learned how to surf and I will always go back to see my family. I will always love the east coast.

Session Highlights:
Our friend, Tim stayed over to hit dawn patrol with us. He doesn't surf as often as we do, but wants to! We are happy to help him get the stoke. Today, the size was small, but the quality of the wave was really nice. I got a lot of nice longboard rights. I took Red Wonder out and I forgot how much fun this board is on nice longboard waves. I had a blast!

8.29.12 - Jumblaya
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob, Chris G, Tracey, Manabu
Swell Height: Head High 
Swell Condition: Rights and Left, jumbled
Board: Maroon Platoon 9'0

Session Highlights:

One word to sum of this surf session: FRUSTRATION!

I caught a wave right away and went all the way to the beach. I caught another one but it wasn't that great. THEN, a BIG lull in catching waves. I would go for the wave, but didn't catch it. It would either just keep rolling or I just plain would not get it. Like I said, "FRUSTRATION!"

Jacob cut his toe on his fin and sat out for the last 10 minutes while I struggled to catch my last wave. I finally caught a zippy left. This was probably one of my worse sessions in awhile.

9.1.12 - Steep Drops
Time: Mid Morning
Surfed with: Jacob, Luke
Swell Height: Head High 
Swell Condition: Point Break - Lefts
Board: Tweetie P

Session Highlights:
Jacob and I stumbled out of bed and found a mouse in our house! After that annoyance, we decided we should go surfing. We've taken care of the situation as best we can and haven't seen another mouse since Sunday. We are having another exterminator come and plug up all the holes underneath our house so the mice won't be our roommates. ugh!

On our search for swell, we passed Luke on route 1. He called and we told him to join us. We checked a secret spot in our area and decided to give it a go. There was no one else out and the waves looked decent.

Luke and I caught waves right away. We both had smiles on our face and said it was worth it! Jacob was struggling, but he was also sitting way outside. He should have moved a bit more on the inside. Once he did, he hit his fin on an rock and broke his fin off! First his fin cuts him and now his fin breaks off. He is not having good luck lately.

We all caught more waves, but my first and last waves were my best.

I truly love sessions when the line up is just friends. It is comforting, friendly and fun. I am not a big fan of crowds.

9.3.12 - Labor Day Crowds
Time: Mid Morning
Surfed with: Jacob, Tim, Jessica, Chris, Mattie, Asma
Swell Height: Shoulder High
Swell Condition: Rights and Lefts
Board: Tweetie P

Session Highlights:
We were going to meet up with our regular surf crew, but decided to go with some of Jacob's old and current co-workers. We hadn't surfed with them in awhile. It was fun!

Asma asked us if we could take her surfing. We took her to LM and we probably should have taken her somewhere else. I think LM is probably one of the worse places to take a beginner. It is crowded and the white water area is not long enough to stand up in. Also, I am too short to stand up in the shallows so I get tired and bashed by the white water. From now on, we are taking people somewhere else!

While Asma took a break, I caught a bunch of waves. They were really fun. The crowd was heavy, but a lot of people at LM just sit there and don't catch anything. Some people call the people bobbing around and not taking waves, "surf buoys".

After surfing, Tim (now Jimbo) and I jammed out on the ukulele. I think we convinced Jessica to get a ukulele too. We are going to start our own ukulele cult (that's right cult not band!)

9.5.12 - Overhead Glassy Joy
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Head - Overhead
Swell Condition: Rights and Lefts
Board: Maroon Platoon

Session Highlights:
I literally sprinted to the swell because I was so excited to see glassy, calm, nearly perfect swell at one of my favorite spots. Also, there was no one out yet! Eventually, other people joined but only about 6 others.

The first wave I caught was just the ocean and me. It was so awesome…perfect.

When the other people joined, dolphins surfaced and a guy yelled, " Oh good, protection from sharks." My thoughts were, "Don't say the "S" word while in the water!" UGH! I like Cynthia's rule: "Never speak the name of The One Who Must Not Be Mentioned while in the water!"

We caught so many good waves. I think this is one of the better sessions I have had lately. The south west swell seems to be sticking around. 

WAVES!

9.6.12 - You are my happy
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob, Luke, Cynthia, Chris, Tracey
Swell Height: Chest to Shoulder, Occasional Head High
Swell Condition: Rights and Lefts
Board: Maroon Platoon

Session Highlights:
At first, the tide was too high creating short swift rides ending with close outs. Once the tide changed, the waves were really glassy with a fun shoulder to ride on.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

Salmon Creek


Doran Beach Campground

We were hoping to go surfing the next day, but the surf was non-existent. Our anniversary tradition is to put a layer of sand from our travel adventures in our unity sand and drink a bottle of wine that we picked out the year before.

Bodega Bay is close to Sonoma so we decided to go to Ledson Winery and Deerfield Wine Cave. We tasted lots of wine and bought 3 bottles. I highly recommend Ledson Winery. Beautiful mansion, great service and delicious wines.

Ledson Winery

I brought my ukulele and made up a fun song about our weekend. Jacob helped me with the lyrics!

Session Highlights:
I am starting to wonder if I should say where I surf only because the crowds have gotten heavier lately. Maybe I guess that is the curse of good swell action.

Crowds were heavy, but we got a lot of really nice glassy waves.

8.16.12
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob and Luke
Swell Height: Chest - Head High
Swell Condition: Mostly Lefts
Board: Maroon Platoon 9'0

Session Highlights:
Another crowded day but the swell was really nice. Fun head high drops into clean lefts. JJ chilled out on the beach because he realized it was above his surfing ability.

8.19.12
Time: Late Afternoon
Surfed with: Jacob, JJ, Emily, Max, Noah, Darren
Swell Height: Knee - Thigh High
Swell Condition: Rights
Board: Maroon Platoon 9'0 and Max's Orange 10'0

Session Highlights:
We headed down to Santa Cruz to meet up with Darren for his birthday. It was also our friend JJ's birthday. We planted a tree for him in our garden.

Elephant Heart Plum Tree

The swell was really small, but it was a really fun long boarding day. We finally surfed with Max and Emily! Max brought a 10'0 board and he let Jacob and me try out. It was very floaty and felt like a boat. I was able to walk up to the nose and back. It was fun to try, but I am going to stick with 9'0 and smaller. Jacob loved it! I spent most of my time on my 9'0 and walked on it a lot. We all caught a lot of party waves and shared stoke with a lot of grommets.

Jacob, JJ and me waiting for small waves (photo taken by @maxkiesler)

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,

J-Bird

Time: Dawn Patrol
Where: LM
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Chest
Swell Condition: Rights and Lefts
Board: Tweetie P 7'10

Session Highlights:
Started out at Montara to find out that the inside was too intense. We ended up at LM and the waves were actually really good. LM redeemed itself from the last time I surfed there. Caught a lot of fun waves!

8.9.12 - Bunnies 

Time: Dawn Patrol
Where: Bunnies
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Thigh - Chest
Swell Condition: Rights and Lefts
Board: Beth's Board 8'2

Session Highlights:
I took Beth's board out and hadn't ridden it for a year. We saw two dolphins and a sea lion. The surf was not that great but hadn't been in the ocean for a week due to traveling.

8.11.12 - Dillon Beach 

Time: Afternoon
Where: Dillon Beach
Surfed with: Jacob, Chris, Perrin
Swell Height: Waist - Chest
Swell Condition: Long Lefts
Board: Maroon Platoon 9'0

Session Highlights:
Chris the Red invited us to go up to Bodega Bay for surf and go to the Sebastopol Apple Festival.

We searched for swell and found a great sandbar about a mile off shore at Dillon beach. It was definitely worth the paddle. We went to the apple festival and devoured pie, fritters, and a turkey leg. We also enjoyed some Bluegrass from Old Jawbone.

Jacob also bought 60lbs of apples!

8.12.12 - LM

Time: Mid Morning
Where: LM
Surfed with: Jacob, JJ, Tamara, Jade
Swell Height: Thigh - Chest
Swell Condition: Rights and Lefts
Board: Tweetie P 7'10

Session Highlights:
JJ, Tamara and Jade arrived at our house on Friday night. They cycled from Boston to San Francisco for 70 days and through 14 states. They stayed over our house and Jade and Tamara expressed they wanted to learn how to surf. JJ use to surf with us in Boston.

We were suppose to meet up with Cynthia, Darren and Luke, but they went to Montara with bigger waves not good for newbies.

We ended up at LM and they did great! They paddled out into the lineup and caught white water.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

Time: Dawn Patrol
Where: LM
Surfed with: Jacob, Cynthia, Luke, Marica
Swell Height: Thigh - Chest
Swell Condition: Closeouts
Board: Tweetie P 7'10

Session Highlights:
I am starting to understand why some of my surf buddies don't like surfing at LM. I have figured out that there are much better places to surf. I caught one decent ride but everything else was closed out. I was really frustrated, but like any surfer will say, "Surfing crappy waves is better than not surfing." I guess so…mumbles.

7.26.12 - Topanga (LA)

Time: Afternoon
Where: Topanga in LA
Surfed with: Jacob and Shiva
Swell Height: Thigh - Waist
Swell Condition: Mushy Rights and Lefts
Board: Shiva's Board - 7'6

Session Highlights:
Jacob and I went down to LA for the US Open of Surfing. We arrived a couple days early because I had a design meeting in Venice and met with the organizer before the event. We met up with Jacob's cousin, Shiva and went surfing at Topanga. With low expectations, we went surfing in 70 degree heavenly water. Even though it looked flat, our session turned out to be a lot of fun! We caught tons of fun sized clean waves off the rock reef.

7.28.12 - Huntington Beach Pier (LA)

Time: Morning
Where: Huntington Beach Pier (LA)
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Waist
Swell Condition: Clean Rights and Lefts
Board: Rental 9' Single Fin

Session Highlights:
Caught a bunch of great waves and got up to the nose on a couple waves. An angry dude got mad at me for catching waves and told me to relocate. Everyone else in the water was really nice and had great conversations. The water was so warm and I really wanted to take off my wetsuit. I love surfing in warm water sans booties and gloves. Next time I am going sans wetsuit too.

7.29.12 - Huntington Beach Pier (LA)

Time: Afternoon
Where: Huntington Beach Pier (LA)
Surfed with: Jacob and Shiva
Swell Height: Waist to Chest
Swell Condition: Choppy Rights and Lefts
Board: Rental 9' Single Fin

Session Highlights:
We went out a little later and the waves were already wind blown. We caught some fun waves, but it wasn't as fun as Saturday's session.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

Time: Dawn Patrol
Where: Montara
Surfed with: Jacob, Dolphins
Swell Height: Shoulder High
Swell Condition: CLEAN
Board: Tweetie P 7'10

Session Highlights:
I usually bring 9'0 Maroon Platoon, but I wanted to ride Tweetie P because I haven't ridden that board at Montara very much. I like challenging myself and trying new boards. I was a little rusty at first, but then I caught a nice right. I paddled out for more and it seemed like the swell was getting better. Fun morning!

Montara. Photo by taken by Jacob

7.18.12 - Magical Montara
Time: Dawn Patrol
Where: Montara
Surfed with: Jacob, Cynthia, Marcia, Luke, Tracey, Chris and Dolphins
Swell Height: Shoulder - Head High
Swell Condition: Clean and Slabby
Board: Tweetie P 7'10

Session Highlights:
Cynthia gathered the troops for dawn patrol. Easy paddle out but the waves were a bit tricky. I thought I was far enough on the outside to catch one of the steeper slabby waves, but my judgement was incorrect. I got smacked down by the wave. I learned my lesson and paddle out further and caught some really nice lefts.

We caught our last wave, but Tracey and Chris showed up. Jacob said, "Let's catch one more wave" and I paddled back out again. I immediately caught one, but didn't want to wait on the beach so I paddled out again. The swell was dying and it took me about 30 minutes to catch "one more wave."

Montara and J-Bird playing ukulele. Photo take by Jacob.

7.22.12 - Sloppy JT

Time: Mid Morning
Where: JT
Surfed with: Jacob, Cynthia, Luke, Heather, Perrin, MJ
Swell Height: Waist to Chest high
Swell Condition: Sloppy and bumpy
Board: Tweetie P 7'10

Session Highlights:
It is becoming a tradition to surf on Sunday for "Church of Surf" with the crew. Sometimes we have a large attendance and sometimes few gather. Today we had a great attendance.

Each of us did a surf check on the our way. We checked Montara and it was super heavy, Cynthia said Bunnies was decent but might not be good for a beginner, and Luke said JT was small but doable. We drove by the JT and it was flat. We didn't wait for a set and decided to meet up with Cynthia at Bunnies. Luke, MJ, (Luke's friend) and Heather had already paddled out at the JT. We decided to join up with them since we planned on meeting.

The surf was not great and there were a lot of people out. It was windy creating a lot of bumpy swell. I caught a nice left but the other rides I got were subpar. I took off late on one of my waves and decided to ditch the board and body surf instead. It was actually really exhilarating!

This is not the JT. A picture of the California Coastline.

She took 3rd place in the 1st heat and 2nd heat and placed 4th over all. Great job on your first surf contest, Cynthia!

Cynthia with her BirdSwell board

Representing BirdSwell!

First Heat in Yellow

She caught the first ride of the first heat! An amazing long left - her favorite!




2nd heat in Blue

Linda Mar - probably the worst place for a surf contest. 1. Crowded 2. Windy 3. Close Outs

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,

J-Bird

Time: DP (6:30am)
Where: Bunnies
Surfed with: Jacob, Chris the Red, Cynthia
Swell Height: Shoulder High
Swell Condition: Some Clean Shoulders and Closeouts
Board: Tweetie P 7'10

Session Highlights:
Chris told us he wanted to do a dawn patrol session before work for his birthday. He lives and works in the East Bay (about 45 minutes from the ocean) so we invited him to stay at our house. 

Cynthia arrived earlier than us and gave us a report. JT was flat and Bunnies was chest to shoulder high with some clean shoulders and close outs. The clear decision was to go to Bunnies. We got ready in the fog and kept singing Happy Birthday to Chris. I think he enjoyed it.

Jacob, Chris and I went for the same wave. I was in the middle and realized I didn't want to go for it because I couldn't tell where they were going to end up. They ended up splitting the peak and caught a birthday party wave!

My last wave of the day was a swift left that took me all the way in. Fun morning!

Bunny at Bunnies

7.14.12 - Chilly Aluminum Foil

Time: Mid Morning (9:30am)
Where: Bunnies
Surfed with: Jacob, Perrin
Swell Height: Waist - Chest High
Swell Condition: Some Clean Shoulders and Closeouts
Board: Tweetie P 7'10

Session Highlights:

Gloomy, foggy and conditions were minimal. Perrin and I planned to meet up because she was itching to go. She told me, "I've only surfed twice in the past 3 weeks. Feeling parched!"

We drove past all the usual spots and didn't see any exciting swell action. LM was crowded with 1 foot crumbly junk, Montara looked shifty and closed out, JT was completely flat but thankfully, Bunnies was empty and had swell.

I caught 2 waves right away and then the wind started to shift and made ocean look like crumply aluminum foil. However, we caught a bunch of waves and was a lot more fun that we expected. I also enjoyed being in the line up with awesome people.

Lessons learned from today's session:

1. Low to no expectations = Fun Surf Session

2. Just keep paddling (in surfing and in life)

3. Surfing has taught me patience (as far as waiting for the right wave to catch and learning how to surf) and this has translated into my every day life. (from Perrin)

Time: Mid Morning (9:45am)
Where: Montara
Surfed with: Jacob, Chris the Red, Sarah McG (from Boston)
Swell Height: Shoulder High
Swell Condition: Sloppy Left Shoulders
Board: 7'10 Tweetie P

Session Highlights:
The swell was poor all over the Coastside. Jacob wanted to check out a less known spot that is protected from the wind. From the cliff it didn't look that exciting, but we had already made the effort to search for swell. Sarah was also here visiting from Boston for a couple of days and we wanted her to go surfing with us. She use to surf with us back in Boston.

Both Sarah and Chris were excited to be in the ocean. They both commented that Jacob and I have become too picky and that we should just be excited to go surfing. They are probably right, but my 2012 resolution is, "Quality over Quantity" in all aspects of my life: surfing, design, clients, friends…life in general. Also, this was posted on a popular surf forum: Old Guy Sage Advice at OB and I think about how my surf mentor can't surf anymore because of his knees. Maybe I should quit complaining and just surf!

Since the swell wasn't that great and crashing right into the rocks, my goal was to get one wave and call it a day. I didn't feel comfortable taking off on a lot of the waves because I am terrified of rocks. I don't want to get hurt or knocked out if I wipe out. I know how powerful the ocean is and it can take your life at any point. I know when to be cautious and today was one of those days.

It took about 40 minutes for me to catch one wave and it was worth the long left that I caught.

7.7.12 - Teaching MKB and Aerin

Time: Mid Morning (10:00am)
Where: Kyle's Spot
Surfed with: Jacob, Chris the Red, Sarah McG (from Boston), MKB and Aerin
Swell Height: Shoulder High
Swell Condition: Zippy Left and Rights
Board: 7'10 Tweetie P

Session Highlights:
Jacob finally convinced MKB and Aerin to go surfing with us. We needed to find a spot where the crowd factor was low and the swell wasn't too rough so Jacob could teach them.

They rented wetsuits and boards from our local surf shop, Sonlight. Dan and Robin, the owners, are really great and always helpful.

We drove right to HMB to search for waves. The JT was basically flat, Mirimar wasn't happening and finally Kyle's Spot looked good for both beginners and advanced surfing.

From the shore, the waves looked like they were closed out. However, when I caught my first ride I zipped down the line into a clean face. The shoulders were holding up and I caught a bunch of exhilarating rides. I am glad I brought Tweetie P because the drops were pitchy and needed the rocker for the fast drop ins.

Everyone had a good time and both MKB and Aerin said that they want to go again. I think that is a a good sign!

"All I need is a jet pack" -MKB



Stacked Quiver

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

Session Highlights:
Montara is great when other spots are nearly flat. The swell comes off the sandbars perfectly and the rip currents are not strong. There is often a nice channel that you can paddle through to avoid ice cream headaches.

Today was a beautiful day at Montara. The channel was there and so were the waves! Maroon Platoon and Montara have proven to be a great combination for me. The higher performance longboard allows for a quick paddle out and a clean fast drop in on the steeper waves. I want to bring Tweetie P there and see how that board does because it has a lot of rocker and is built for steeper waves.

I caught a bunch of head high lefts, but the one lone right I caught was the most memorable with an exhilarating drop in. From Tracey's perspective, she said, "I saw you paddling, stop and then quickly pop up to make the drop." When I was on the wave, I thought to myself, "I will either make this drop or go over the falls." Thankfully, I made the drop!

Both Jacob and Tracey said that they saw me catch waves, disappear and then see my head reappear near the end of the wave. I am short, so the waves may have been a little bigger than head high on me, but on Tracey and Jacob (taller) probably head high.

After I caught my last wave, I was waiting for Jacob and Tracey to come in. I saw Tracey going for a great wave and she was in the perfect spot. It looked like she might hesitate taking the wave so I screamed from the shore to give her encouragement. She heard me and paddled harder and made the head high drop into a clean right. I am so glad she made it because it looked amazing from the shore! I know when others cheer for me to get into a wave it makes me paddle and try harder. Sometimes, it takes that little encouragement from someone else to take the wave.

God is in the waves

Session Highlights:
Once again, every spot was flat besides Montara. From the cliff, it didn't look that great. However, the waves were bigger than we expected. Happy surprise!

Cynthia had been saying that the water was around 59 degrees. I was super excited and surfed sans boots and gloves. Summer temperatures are here!

We all caught a ton of fun waves. At one point, I was even kind of hot from the long paddle back. There were some lulls between sets, but the set waves were worth waiting for. I had a blast this morning!

I have been playing my ukelele a lot more and I brought it with us this morning. After the session, I played a thank you song to Montara for the beautiful waves!

my ukelele

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,

J-BIrd

Time: Dawn Patrol (6:45am)
Where: LM
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Shoulder High
Swell Condition: short shoulders with a lot of close outs
Board: 9'0 Maroon Platoon

Session Highlights:
Last week, I caught a head cold and gave it to Jacob. Our colds limited us from going into the ocean, but we finally decided we couldn't take it any longer! 

I was able to make it into the line up easily and I even caught a wave right away. It felt really great to be back in the ocean and surfing again. At times, I was having trouble breathing because I still had a lot of head congestion. I could also feel a lot of pressure on my chest when I was lying down on the board. The ocean is a great netti pot! It cleaned me out and I could breathe better afterward. I knew I was weak and was happy to have my longboard.

----------

6.20.12 - Happy International Surfing Day!

Time: Dawn Patrol (6am - Cynthia wanted to get out early and beat the crowds!)
Where: LM
Surfed with: Jacob, Perrin, Cynthia, Darren and we met Marcia
Swell Height: Shoulder - Head High
Swell Condition: Right Shoulders and Close Outs
Board: 9'0 Maroon Platoon

Session Highlights:
The surf crew met up to celebrate International Surfing Day (ISD). Perrin said she wasn't going to be able to make it and said her surfboard was in the shop getting fixed. I said she couldn't miss ISD and offered her to borrow one of our boards. She said she was heading up to Tahoe in the morning and couldn't make it down from the East Bay. I told her she could stay the night at our house since we live five minutes from the ocean. By offering both room and board, I finally convinced her to go surfing. I am an enabler for surf and fun!

We woke up at 5am to meet everyone at the beach at 6am. It takes me 20-30 minutes to wake up! We met at LM and it didn't look that great. However, we all found waves and had a great time. It was a beautiful morning with the sun rising over the mountains. I am glad we surfed early because by the time we got out out at 7:45am there was a big crowd.

----------

 6.22.12 - Lovely Montara

Time: Dawn Patrol (7am)
Where: Montara
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Chest - Shoulder High
Swell Condition: Clean Mellow Right and Lefts
Board: 9'0 Maroon Platoon

Session Highlights:
Jacob and I paddle out into the empty ocean. The sun was hiding and the fog was creeping over the Montara mountains. The waves were mellow longboard waves. We enjoyed having the ocean to ourselves and started off the morning with fun waves.

New beach art in the north end Montara parking lot



The shore pound got me on the way back in and I ended up with sandy hair.

----------
 
6.23.12 - Home Sweet Rockaway

Time: Late Afternoon (4pm)
Where: Rockaway
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Waist with an Occasional Chest High
Swell Condition: Mushy Right and Lefts
Board: 8'6 Red Wonder

Session Highlights:
Jacob and I live in Rockaway Beach and we have only surfed there 1 time before. The previous time was really intimidating. It was on a large swell with a lot of current. It really spooked me and has made me really hesitant to surf there again. Rockaway can be dicey and dangerous because of the large boulders and the rip currents.

It was really fun on a small swell. I am glad we surfed there since it is 2 minutes down the road from us. Some people say I should be scared of Montara, but Rockaway definitely seems a lot more dangerous to me. I guess if I surf Montara and have tried the Pacifica Pier, I should be able to surf Rockaway on a bigger swell. Surfing there today gave me more confidence. Maybe I will try it on a bigger swell…we'll see.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

Time: Sunday Morning
Where: JT
Surfed with: Jacob, Cynthia and also saw Julie and Ian! 
Swell Height: waist high
Swell Condition: clean fast lefts and sunny

Highlights of the session:

Cynthia arrived at the JT at 7am and we rolled in around 8am to beat the Spring winds. I rushed to get out into the line up to meet up with Cynthia while Jacob took his time. It was a nice easy dry paddle out. The waves were a little sparse at first. After 10 minutes, Cynthia and I caught one wave together! Cynthia had to leave to visit with her sick kitty, but she is on the mend.

I paddled back out and Jacob finally met up with me. While waiting for the waves I spotted Julie in the water. She and I participated in a Pacifica Art Festival. She makes really nice fleece jackets and other fleece products. I paddled over to her and we talked for a bit. She told me that she use to live right on Steamers Lane in Santa Cruz. Jealous! She moved up here for different reasons, but lives really close to the JT. I hope I will see her out in the water again.

After talking to her, Ian, a guy in my business networking group yelled my name! I love being in the water with people I know. We talked for a bit and then I caught 2 really nice lefts. It seemed like the swell was getting messier with the tide. My hands started going numb so I wanted to go in and caught one more and called it a day.

Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

Luckily, John Polzella, my parent's friend from church, was giving surf lessons that summer! It was serendipitous! I thought we were going straight to the ocean, but John did not start me out in the water. He gave me a packet about surfing etiquette, showed me different types of surfboards (long, short, single fin, tri fin, etc) and told me what each part of the surfboard was called. He showed me endless surf videos so I could see how people ride different surfboards and waves. 

After 3 (indoor) classes, he finally brought me to the beach. The first thing he did was push me while I was standing on the beach! Being surprised, I pushed him back and said, "What was that for?!?" He said he needed to figure out if I was regular or goofy foot. I am regular. He gave me his 7'6 Hobie surfboard from the 1970's to ride. He showed me how to duck dive the white water, how to sit on the board, how to paddle and read the wave. He always reminded me about surf etiquette, to have the aloha spirit, and most importantly to have FUN while surfing. I still have this mindset today!

I caught my first wave on my belly and the exhilaration from catching the wave was so extreme. I couldn't stop smiling, laughing and jumping around like a kook. I didn't even care what other people on the beach thought because it was the BEST feeling in the world! I immediately went back out for more and even caught a wave on my feet in the white water. I was completely hooked.

From that day on, I knew I had to keep surfing and catch a real wave. I thought if white water feels this great then riding on a real wave like a real surfer has to be even more amazing! John and I met up a bunch of times that summer and I eventually got my own surfboard. Since I couldn't drive yet, I made my family take me and I also didn't want to be alone if something happened to me. Unfortunately, none of my friends surfed at the time.

Years went by and I was improving and surfing alone. At one point, John tried to convince me to do surfing competitions, but I vowed to myself that I would never do one because surfing is purely fun and not competitive for me. For me, surfing is a lifestyle and not a sport. I fell in love with surfing so much that I wanted to find a partner that I could share my love of surfing with. I met Jacob my second year of college. He was an avid skier but had never tried surfing. I convinced him that he had to try it and 10 years later he is still surfing with me.

When Jacob and I got married in 2008, we decided that the day after our wedding we wanted to do a "first surf session as a married couple." John came to our wedding and joined us for the surf session. We hadn't surfed together for probably 10 years. He said he was so happy that I was still surfing and that I got Jacob into surfing too! In that moment, it was like everything came full circle. John taught me as a child, and 12 years later he was surfing with me as a grown woman with my husband. It was such a remarkable moment for both of us. He has taught a bunch of people how to surf, but he told me that I was one of the only ones that really kept to the commitment. 

If it were not for John, I wouldn't be where I am today. I wouldn't be a surfer, I wouldn't have started BirdSwell and I wouldn't be living in California. I can only hope that I can make an impact on someone's life like John's impact on me.

Thank you, John, for teaching me and introducing me to one of the biggest passions in my life. Thank you for taking me out into the vast ocean and giving me the aloha spirit. I am indebted to you as most of my life decisions have revolved around the surfing lifestyle!

J-Bird, Jacob and John Pozella at our "First Surf Session as a Married Couple" in 2008

• Salvador Dali
• Hayao Miyazaki
• Nick La

I love the organic, fantasy, and mystical aspects that they all utilize in their work. Each artist has created their own unusual and unique styles.

Salvador Dali's drips and melting forms really inspire me. His unusual personality shines through all of his work and I love that he was always truly himself. I first saw his work in an art history high school class and fell in love with his work. When I studied abroad in Italy for a semester, I was able to travel to Barcelona and saw his art work in his gallery. His work is very complicated, but the forms in his work really speak to me.

I am inspired by both Miyazaki and Nick La's Japanese style.

The first Miyazaki I watched was "Howl's Moving Castle" and was extremely inspired by the mystical artwork and imaginative story. Before watching this, I was never really into Japanese Anime. After seeing and watching Miyazaki's work, I was completely hooked. I really enjoy Studio Ghibli's work. Miyazaki is not afraid to put his imagination into his work and that really inspires me.

I saw Nick La speak at Design Conference in New York City. He was my favorite speaker of the conference because he took the audience through his step by step process of creating his illustrations. His illustrations are detailed, colorful and eye catching. He starts off with a simple drawing and transfers it onto the computer adds detail and color through Adobe Illustrator. He is an incredible illustrator. I really love his work. He is really humble and extremely talented.

There are other artist that influence me, but these are my top three that I admire.

Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

Time: Dawn Patrol
Where: Bunnies
Surfed with: Jacob
Board: Tweetie P
Swell Height:  Shoulder high
Swell Condition: clean crisp lefts

Highlights:
Frosty 35 degrees with frost on the ground. Easy paddle out with clean lines. It was just Jacob and me and no one else out. Caught a lot of fun waves!

Time: Dawn Patrol
Where: Linda Mar
Surfed with: Jacob and Amanda
Swell Height: Shoulder High
Swell Condition: Quick Rights and Left shoulders

Highlights:

Caught a bunch of waves in the beautiful morning sun.

1.12.12 - LM shoulders

Time: Dawn Patrol
Where: Montara then Linda Mar
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height:  Waist High
Swell Condition: Clean, Mellow, Off Shore

Highlights:
We went into Montara at first and the current was too intense. We decided to go back to LM and grabbed a couple of waves in morning the sun.

Unfortunately, we didn't go surfing on Saturday when the swell was beautiful. We were hoping to go out on Sunday, but the wind was kicked up and the surf was completely blown out.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

Through BirdSwell, I have more freedom to do what I want to do. I get to surf more often and create art that I want to create.

I love when a surf shop or a person buys a BirdSwell product and is so excited about the artwork and product. It really excites me that they love my artwork and my passion. 

BirdSwell is my gift and offering to the world. It is my stamp on the world. It is my creation. It is my voice.  

Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

Time: Dawn Patrol
Where: Linda Mar
Board: 7'10 Tweetie P
Surfed with: Jacob, Denise and Amanda
Swell Height: Head High + 
Swell Condition: strong currents, some close outs and some shoulders

Highlights:
Big January swells causing a 10 minute paddle out!

Denise and J-Bird

1.7.12 - Sunset Surfing

Time: Sunset Surf
Where: HMB Jetty
Board: 7'10 Tweetie P
Surfed with: Jacob, Seemant and Dugen
Swell Height: Waist to Chest High 
Swell Condition: bad at low tide but got better on the incoming tide

Highlights:
Unfortunately, Seemant hurt his neck as he is still learning how to surf. Jacob and I caught a bunch of fun waves along with Dugen.

1.8.12 - Church of Surf with the Surf Posse

Standing: Luke, Cynthia and Jacob
High Kicking: Caro and J-Bird
(photo from Cynthia)

Time: Afternoon Surf
Where: Bunnies (secret spot in HMB)
Board: 7'10 Tweetie P
Surfed with: Jacob, Luke, Caro, Cynthia, and Denise was there for a short time.
Swell Height: Head High + 
Swell Condition: clean beautiful shoulders

Highlights:
Great weather, great waves and great friends. It was a perfect California day ending with a beautiful sunset!

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

We went surfing at the JT, LM, and SC. Some of our CA surfing pals also joined us for our sessions. The waves at the JT and LM were shoulder to head high and SC was waist to shoulder longboard rights.

Luke, Tara, Morgan, Jacob, J-Bird in Santa Cruz (picture taken by Cynthia)

We are planning on going up to Washington and surfing their break. They say that it is much colder with short period swell. It should be like surfing back in New England on a day when a hurricane arrives.

Also, for the month of December we are donating 10% of all the sales to Save the Waves Coalition. Please help support this great organization! 

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

She and I headed down to the beach and she was still nervous. Right when we got in, I caught a nice glassy chest high left. Denise got excited and shouted, "I want one of those!" The next wave that came rolling through, she and I caught it together and she was so excited. She was happy that we convinced her to try Montara on a calm day. 

We all caught a bunch of glassy chest high rights and lefts. It was a great uncrowded session. 

11.11.11 - LM Strong Offshore Winds
Jacob and I met up with Darren and Noah at LM. It wasn't looking that great so we drove down to the JT which was even worse! Darren told us that he has never seen the JT so bad so we headed back to LM. The offshore winds picked up but we still got in. Half way through our session, it started to rain and got even more windy. The crowd was heavy with people trying to catch waves but getting bumped off of them because of the strong winds.

At this point in the session, my goal was to catch 1 wave. I was on the 7'3 board so I was messing up a bunch of waves. I finally caught a nice shoulder high right and a random guy came up to me and said, "That was a sweet wave!" I thanked him and set a goal to catch just 1 more wave. About 10 minutes later, I caught another one and decided to call it a day.

Jacob was on his longboard and caught a bunch but had to paddle really hard to get into the waves to beat the wind.

11.13.11 - JT Church of Surf
Cynthia just got her new short board, Rocket shaped by Ward Coffey. I was excited for her and wanted to see her new board. However, we arrived late at the JT and only saw her for a couple of waves. She caught 2 nice ones and then went in. Rocket is pretty sweet!!

I brought the 7'3 (still working on the name) and got into a bunch of really fun waist to chest high waves. I am getting better at turning and maneuvering the board. It is less wobbly and a lot of fun! 

I told Jacob that he is boring because he always uses the same old longboard. However, this session he brought Tweetie P and also rode the 7'3. He was great on both boards!

Side Note:
I have been doing some personal strength training specifically for my legs. I have had a bad left knee/leg from over doing it with running. This past year I stopped running altogether and my legs have really weakened. During my time with my trainer, I am doing a lot of leg strengthening, but I am also doing some great surf related exercises too. They are hard to explain, but they are making my upper body strong too! I really feel like it is helping me pop up faster while surfing.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

11.6.11 - Sun, Friends and JT
Cynthia, Jacob and I met up at the JT. Cynthia and I realized that we haven't surfed together since mid September! I was happy to get back in the water with her. Nikki joined us later in the session.

I took Tweetie out and Jacob took out our friend Denise's 7'3 board out. I was really surprised that he wanted to take it out and not his beloved longboard! One of the great things about surfing in California is that you can try a bunch of different boards because the swell is bigger and steeper. I have tried boards from 6'4 to 9'8 this past year. I am finding that I enjoy boards in the 7' range for winter swell and 8'6 + for small summer swell. We are lucky to have friends with all different size boards so we don't have to buy boards but can borrow them.

Half way through the session, Jacob and I switched boards. I was skeptical that I would be able to catch waves on the 7'3, but I was able to drop in really easily on the board. I wasn't as stable standing on the board, but the drop ins were great. I am hoping to borrow the board a little longer and learn how to turn better on the board. 

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

I took out Tweetie P. I haven't surfed this board all summer because I have been riding my longboards. The waves have been really mellow. 

My paddling was a bit off but I did catch some sweet rides. The drop ins were much different and I ripped down the line. I am looking forward to more winter swells and taking Tweetie P out more often.

As per usual, Jacob had a blast and caught tons of waves. He was excited to get back out at Bunnies since we hadn't been there forever.

10.28.11 - Chill longboarding at LM
We arrived at LM earlier than the sun so we drove down to Montara to check out the surf. However, it was mushy and messy so we went back to LM. 

LM served up a bunch of mellow longboard waves with the beautiful sun shining all morning. A great way to start the day!

10.29.11 - Sunny Lefts at LM
Jacob and I met up with Nikki at LM. It was a crowded sun filled morning. When we first got out to the line up, the waves were slightly messy and not too much punch to them. We had to paddle really hard to get into the waves. After an hour the line up dispersed and the waves got bigger and cleaner. By the end of the session, we were catching a bunch of fun clean head high waves.

This is the best time of the year in Northern California. Great waves, weather and sunsets!

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

Past 3 week surf sessions (no details)

10.3.11 - LM
10.11.11 - LM
10.13.11 - JT
10.19.11 - MT

This past weekend's surf sessions:
10.22.11 - Bodega Bay
Chris "The Red" invited us to surf Bodega Bay and then go to a winery event at Truett Hurst Winery. We had never been to either so we were excited to check out both!

When we arrived the surf looked really fun and the waves were clean and glassy. There were two sand bars that the waves were breaking on. Jacob decided to sit on the outside bar and Chris and I sat on the inside bar. I caught some quick drop ins with mostly short rides. Some were longer but not as long as Jacob's rides on the outside. He was killing it on the outside sandbar. The waves were shoulder high on the inside bar and head high on the outside bar. The water was clear blue. There was no red tide up north! Bodega Bay was so picturesque.

Bodega Bay
 

We ended the day at Truett Hurst and we bought a bottle of Chardonnay for Jacob dad's birthday and bought a bottle of Pinot Noir for our 4th wedding anniversary next August.

10.23.11 - Montara and LM
We were suppose to meet up at the JT for a Coastside Surf Up with friends. Originally, we planned a 9am surf up but Cynthia mentioned that the tide at the JT was going to be really high so we changed the time to meet to 11am. However, on Friday Jacob informed me that he had a charity dodgeball tournament in the middle of the day and had to go surfing early and 11am was too late. 

Instead of meeting up with everyone, we met up with Chris "The Red", Stolte and Denise. We went to Montara and Jacob, Chris and I caught some really fun head high glassy waves. Stolte said it was too big for him so he sat on the beach. After we caught a good amount of waves, we went to LM so Stolte could catch some waves too. It was crowded, but we all caught some fun shoulder high to head high waves. The red tide seemed to be gone too!! The water was not brown but blue (pheeeew!) Earlier this month, I went surfing in the red tide and got a rash on my arms. Usually, red tide doesn't affect people, but I do have extremely sensitive skin so anything that is abnormal will affect my skin.

I am hoping my life will calm down a little and I can find more of a routine. I am sure this won't be possible especially since the holidays are coming up very soon! 2011 has been full of ups and downs and has gone by so quickly.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

9.30.11 - Late Afternoon LM
I started off the day delivering hoodies to Log Shop. I drove by LM and there were nice clean waist high longboard waves. Then I drove up to 2 mile surf shop in Bolinas to deliver their hoodies. I was hopeful that I would be able to fit in a Bolinas session, but the tide was too high. 

I headed back to LM and the waves were still clean knee to waist high waves. Even though it was small, I couldn't pass up a sunny, 72 degrees beautiful day in the water. Max and Emily said they were at LM, but I couldn't find them. I headed into the north end and a ton of  fun waves came through. I caught a bunch of long lefts that allowed me to get to the nose and cross stepping on the 9'0 maroon platoon. I don't mind when LM is smaller because the waves don't close out as badly and a nice shoulder forms.

10.1.11 - JT Stiches
Earlier in the week, my friend, Chris, emailed me and said he wanted to learn how to surf. My other friend, Chris "The Red" joined us too. I started him on the beach and determined that he was a goofy foot. I showed him how to do a pop up, taught him about the surf board and surf etiquette. I told him that he needs to be aware of where the board is and if he happens to fall that he should protect his head. I told him that he needs to be aware of rip currents and the strength of the ocean.

He was doing a great job catching white water. He got to his knees a couple times and said he was having a great time. However, when he was coming back out to line up for another wave, the white water hit the board into his face and made a huge gash. I heard the board hit something but I didn't know it was his face! I looked at him and all of a sudden blood was gushing from his chin! I couldn't see the cut so I told him to get out of the ocean, unleash and put his board on the beach. I ran up to the car to grab a towel so he could clean the wound.

He cleaned up his chin and the gash was long and deep. I wanted Chris "The Red" to confirm that Chris should get  medical attention and he said, "Ya, I think he will probably need stitches." Thankfully, Seton Coastside Hospital is only 5 minutes away from the JT. Chris "The Red" stayed at the JT to watch our surf boards and surf while I took Chris to the hospital.

We didn't get out of our wetsuits and drove straight to the hospital. The doctor looked at him and said, 'Yes, you need 5 stitches. I'll get everything ready and you'll be out here before you know it."

Chris was really calm, got stitched up and we headed back to the JT. Chris hung out on the beach while Chris "The Red" and I caught some waves. The surf was junky but I met two really cool people in the line up. A woman named, Judy, who lives in Hawaii for half the year and in Half Moon Bay for the other half of the year. I also met Joel from Monterey. 

Even though Chris had to get stitches, he wants to try surfing again. He was doing a great job and he said that he was sad that his session was cut short.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

9.24.11-9.25.11 - Pacifica Fog Festival!
We set up a booth with the help of my friends, Denise and Stephanie, at the Pacifica Fog Festival. The festival took place next to our house! Our neighborhood is pretty quiet and this is one of the major events that happens. It was great seeing so many people come to Pacifica.

We met a bunch of great people and finally met Emily and Max! I have been talking with them through twitter for a year. We are excited to go surfing with them soon!

Thank you everyone that visited us at our booth and for supporting us!

BirdSwell Booth at Fog Festival


This boy really wanted a picture with his new "Whale of a Wave" BirdSwell T-Shirt.
He was adorable!

9.27.11 - 1 year in California!
Today marks Jacob and I living in California for a year! We had a pretty normal day and went surfing at LM. The waves weren't that great, but we caught a couple together. We saw Luke going into the water as we were getting out of the water.

It takes time to reflect on a whole year, but I know that it has been one of the best years of my life. I am grateful for all the people that I have met through surfing, Jacob's work, my networking group, my work and life in general.

I really miss our friends and family, but we have been fortunate and a lot of them have come to visit us in our new home. We have been back to the East Coast a couple times to see our family and the newest member of my family, Ellie!

What a great year and I hope California continues to bring happiness and prosperity for Jacob and me! I am so happy!

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

After we were done at the store, we headed over to Steamer's Lane and found an uncrowded spot on the middle peak at Indicators. The waves were really clean, waist to chest, but the water was full of kelp! I took off on my first wave and had a nice drop in going down the line but then BOOM, I was flying through the air like Super Woman! It was crazy! I adjusted and paddled over to a less kelpy area and tried to navigate my board through the waves. Both Cynthia and I caught a couple really long lefts that were kelp free. Cynthia and a seal had a close encounter but the seal was quick to dive out of Cynthia's way. It was a great uncrowded session with a sunset. 

J-Bird in Santa Cruz (picture taken by Cynthia)

9.17.11 - Long Lefts
Jacob had to go to a conference for work, so I joined Cynthia and Luke for a session at Rachel's Point. When we first got in, the waves were clean and head high. I set up a little on the outside so I wouldn't get crushed by the peak of the wave and caught 2 really nice clean long lefts. After awhile the waves were coming from two different directions creating choppy unpredictable waves. I tried to catch some, but wasn't as successful. I would almost catch the wave but then it would redirect me in the direction I wasn't paddling. It was frustrating. I am glad I got 2 good ones before the swell decided to be messy.

Luke brought out his new 9'6 high performance Carton board that he won at conference. Whenever Jacob and I go to Costa Rica, we have rented Carton boards. They are great for high performance waves. Luke caught a couple nice ones on his board. Cynthia was on her 7'0 and said she got the spin cycle, but I saw her catch some.

9.18.11 - Fun in the Sun
Our friend John mentioned that we should gather our local surf friends and have a good time in the water once a month. I thought that was a great idea and took the initiative to gather everyone. We had a great turn out!  Luke, Cynthia, Jacob, Nikki, Darren, Heather, John, Adrian, Noah, Denise, and I were there early. Stolte, Avi, and Tim arrived a little later.

We met at the Jetty and the surf wasn't that great, but we didn't really want to go to LM because it was super crowded. We all decided that we could have fun in small waves and we sure did! Sometimes surfing isn't just about how awesome the waves are, but about who you are surfing with and having fun!

Almost every wave was a party wave and a couple lone rides. All rides were knee to some waist high waves. I tried 2 different boards, Luke's 9'6 Carton and Stolte's high performance 8'4. It was a beautiful and sunny filled day with lots of laughter and smiles. At one point, a bigger set came through and I tried to take the wave, but I was caught on the inside and the wave clobbered me. Everyone saw it and John did the best impression of my face when I was going over the falls! I was deemed, "Best Wipe Out of the Day!"