September 06, 2012 | 0 comments

long over due surf blogging

8.28.12 - Tiny Tots
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob, Tim
Swell Height: Knee - Waist
Swell Condition: Rights
Board: Red Wonder 8'6

Session Highlights:
Our friend, Tim stayed over to hit dawn patrol with us. He doesn't surf as often as we do, but wants to! We are happy to help him get the stoke. Today, the size was small, but the quality of the wave was really nice. I got a lot of nice longboard rights. I took Red Wonder out and I forgot how much fun this board is on nice longboard waves. I had a blast!

8.29.12 - Jumblaya
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob, Chris G, Tracey, Manabu
Swell Height: Head High 
Swell Condition: Rights and Left, jumbled
Board: Maroon Platoon 9'0

Session Highlights:

One word to sum of this surf session: FRUSTRATION!

I caught a wave right away and went all the way to the beach. I caught another one but it wasn't that great. THEN, a BIG lull in catching waves. I would go for the wave, but didn't catch it. It would either just keep rolling or I just plain would not get it. Like I said, "FRUSTRATION!"

Jacob cut his toe on his fin and sat out for the last 10 minutes while I struggled to catch my last wave. I finally caught a zippy left. This was probably one of my worse sessions in awhile.

9.1.12 - Steep Drops
Time: Mid Morning
Surfed with: Jacob, Luke
Swell Height: Head High 
Swell Condition: Point Break - Lefts
Board: Tweetie P

Session Highlights:
Jacob and I stumbled out of bed and found a mouse in our house! After that annoyance, we decided we should go surfing. We've taken care of the situation as best we can and haven't seen another mouse since Sunday. We are having another exterminator come and plug up all the holes underneath our house so the mice won't be our roommates. ugh!

On our search for swell, we passed Luke on route 1. He called and we told him to join us. We checked a secret spot in our area and decided to give it a go. There was no one else out and the waves looked decent.

Luke and I caught waves right away. We both had smiles on our face and said it was worth it! Jacob was struggling, but he was also sitting way outside. He should have moved a bit more on the inside. Once he did, he hit his fin on an rock and broke his fin off! First his fin cuts him and now his fin breaks off. He is not having good luck lately.

We all caught more waves, but my first and last waves were my best.

I truly love sessions when the line up is just friends. It is comforting, friendly and fun. I am not a big fan of crowds.

9.3.12 - Labor Day Crowds
Time: Mid Morning
Surfed with: Jacob, Tim, Jessica, Chris, Mattie, Asma
Swell Height: Shoulder High
Swell Condition: Rights and Lefts
Board: Tweetie P

Session Highlights:
We were going to meet up with our regular surf crew, but decided to go with some of Jacob's old and current co-workers. We hadn't surfed with them in awhile. It was fun!

Asma asked us if we could take her surfing. We took her to LM and we probably should have taken her somewhere else. I think LM is probably one of the worse places to take a beginner. It is crowded and the white water area is not long enough to stand up in. Also, I am too short to stand up in the shallows so I get tired and bashed by the white water. From now on, we are taking people somewhere else!

While Asma took a break, I caught a bunch of waves. They were really fun. The crowd was heavy, but a lot of people at LM just sit there and don't catch anything. Some people call the people bobbing around and not taking waves, "surf buoys".

After surfing, Tim (now Jimbo) and I jammed out on the ukulele. I think we convinced Jessica to get a ukulele too. We are going to start our own ukulele cult (that's right cult not band!)

9.5.12 - Overhead Glassy Joy
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Head - Overhead
Swell Condition: Rights and Lefts
Board: Maroon Platoon

Session Highlights:
I literally sprinted to the swell because I was so excited to see glassy, calm, nearly perfect swell at one of my favorite spots. Also, there was no one out yet! Eventually, other people joined but only about 6 others.

The first wave I caught was just the ocean and me. It was so awesome…perfect.

When the other people joined, dolphins surfaced and a guy yelled, " Oh good, protection from sharks." My thoughts were, "Don't say the "S" word while in the water!" UGH! I like Cynthia's rule: "Never speak the name of The One Who Must Not Be Mentioned while in the water!"

We caught so many good waves. I think this is one of the better sessions I have had lately. The south west swell seems to be sticking around. 


9.6.12 - You are my happy
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob, Luke, Cynthia, Chris, Tracey
Swell Height: Chest to Shoulder, Occasional Head High
Swell Condition: Rights and Lefts
Board: Maroon Platoon

Session Highlights:
At first, the tide was too high creating short swift rides ending with close outs. Once the tide changed, the waves were really glassy with a fun shoulder to ride on.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,


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