September 19, 2012 | 0 comments

Coast to Coast Surfing

9.8.12 Accidental Surf Safari
Time: Afternoon
Surfed with: Jacob, Darren
Swell Height: Chest
Swell Condition: Clean Rights
Board: 7'10 Tweetie P

Session Highlights:
Jacob, Darren and I went out to check the waves in San Mateo county and everything was blown out. We traveled down the lonely coast and everything looked crappy. At that point, we decided to go to Santa Cruz and commit. We ended up at The Hook. There was a large crowd, but we all found some great waves.

My wave of the day was on a head high right. Jacob and Darren said they saw me catch it. I had to do a couple long swooping bottom turns to miss the other surfers. Thankfully, no one dropped in on me and I was able to ride the wave all the way to the shore from the point. It was worth the paddle back. This wave will definitely be put in as one of my most memorable waves.

9..11 LM
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Waist to Chest
Swell Condition: Fast quick drops into closeouts
Board: 7'10 Tweetie P

Session Highlights:
We wanted to surf our favorite spot, but it looked really big and heavy. We ended up at LM and it was an ok session. Jacob brought 7'6 Blue Squirrel instead of 9'8 Verde. I was shocked! He said it was a good change and challenge. He was glad he brought it since the waves weren't that great. The waves were quick, fast and zippy drops. I am excited to get my new 7'0 board so I can catch the wave faster and move down the steep wave quicker. Tweetie P is fast and gets the drop but sometimes the length makes me stall on the wave.

9..12 NEMO
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob, Darren, Cynthia
Swell Height: Waist
Swell Condition: Cleaner shoulders but still a lot of close outs
Board: 7'10 Tweetie P

Session Highlights:
The swell dropped a little with a cleaner shoulder. Cynthia brought her 5'4 fish "Nemo" which is as tall as me. Jacob and I both tried it and WOAH was it hard! I felt like a kook and sloppy. I felt like I was learning how to surf again. When I sat on the board, it sunk disappearing into the water. I barely caught 2 waves on it and my arms were so tired from paddling. I felt like this board would be a good size for a child. Even though I completely sucked on it, I want to try it again. I was humbled and challenged, but had blast on it.

We were also suppose to meet up with Zach (whom I have never met. We know him via Twitter) but he was no where to be found. We are starting to think he is "the phantom of the ocean."

9.16.12 Back in New England
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob, Ed
Swell Height: Thigh
Swell Condition: Clean long rights
Board: Ed's 8'4 hull (yellow fatty)

Session Highlights:
Jacob and I went back to the east coast to visit our family and friends. We hadn't seen them since Christmas time. I am very close with my family and friends. My friends become like family to me. I have known some of my friends since grade school. It was so great seeing them all. I have gotten some friends to move west, but I want all my family and friends to move west (definitely won't happen, but I can dream). I really miss them all a lot. Thankfully, we have made some amazing friends in California that are becoming like family. I have told Jacob, "When you become my friend, there is no escaping! You are my friend forever." I really value my relationships with people.

Anyway, Jacob contacted his old boss, Ed. We use to surf with him a lot when we lived in Massachusetts. We met him at Nahant in Massachusetts and he brought boards for us. He brought an 11 foot hull shaped by Andreini for Jacob and an 8'4 yellow hull shaped by Ryan Lovelace for me. I shall call the 8'4 "yellow fatty". Jacob loves this 11 foot board and is probably going to get one very similar to it. The board I rode was really wide with thin rails. It was a different experience, but was easy getting into the wave which allowed me to catch a lot of nice long rights. The swell was small, but the quality was perfect…glassy, peeling with all rights.

9.17.12 Straws, NH 
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Chest high
Swell Condition: Clean long rights
Board: Ed's yellow 8'4 board

Session Highlights:
Since we don't have boards on the east coast, Ed let us borrow his boards for a couple more days. We woke up early to surf Straws in New Hampshire. When we got there, the line up was filled with Stand Up Paddle boarders (SUP). NH has really embraced SUPs. It makes sense because NH doesn't get swell all year round. SUPing is a good alternative to surfing on flat days. However, when there is swell, I wish there were less SUPs only because it can be dangerous on a heavier swell. 

The line up wasn't crowded, but the swell was bigger and there was a nice right off the sandbars. It was glassy, peeling with rights and lefts.

I will always love these surf spots. New Hampshire is where I learned how to surf and I will always go back to see my family. I will always love the east coast.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,


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