11.10 - 11.13 Surf Surf Surfy Surf

11.10.11 - Glassy Montara
Linda Mar was completely flat, but this usually means that Montara will have some nice swell. Jacob and I checked it out and there were some nice sets coming through. Denise met up with us and expressed that she usually hates going to Montara because of the crazy, big and messy waves and rip currents. We convinced her that it wouldn't be crazy today because the swell is flat everywhere else.

She and I headed down to the beach and she was still nervous. Right when we got in, I caught a nice glassy chest high left. Denise got excited and shouted, "I want one of those!" The next wave that came rolling through, she and I caught it together and she was so excited. She was happy that we convinced her to try Montara on a calm day. 

We all caught a bunch of glassy chest high rights and lefts. It was a great uncrowded session. 

11.11.11 - LM Strong Offshore Winds
Jacob and I met up with Darren and Noah at LM. It wasn't looking that great so we drove down to the JT which was even worse! Darren told us that he has never seen the JT so bad so we headed back to LM. The offshore winds picked up but we still got in. Half way through our session, it started to rain and got even more windy. The crowd was heavy with people trying to catch waves but getting bumped off of them because of the strong winds.

At this point in the session, my goal was to catch 1 wave. I was on the 7'3 board so I was messing up a bunch of waves. I finally caught a nice shoulder high right and a random guy came up to me and said, "That was a sweet wave!" I thanked him and set a goal to catch just 1 more wave. About 10 minutes later, I caught another one and decided to call it a day.

Jacob was on his longboard and caught a bunch but had to paddle really hard to get into the waves to beat the wind.

11.13.11 - JT Church of Surf
Cynthia just got her new short board, Rocket shaped by Ward Coffey. I was excited for her and wanted to see her new board. However, we arrived late at the JT and only saw her for a couple of waves. She caught 2 nice ones and then went in. Rocket is pretty sweet!!

I brought the 7'3 (still working on the name) and got into a bunch of really fun waist to chest high waves. I am getting better at turning and maneuvering the board. It is less wobbly and a lot of fun! 

I told Jacob that he is boring because he always uses the same old longboard. However, this session he brought Tweetie P and also rode the 7'3. He was great on both boards!

Side Note:
I have been doing some personal strength training specifically for my legs. I have had a bad left knee/leg from over doing it with running. This past year I stopped running altogether and my legs have really weakened. During my time with my trainer, I am doing a lot of leg strengthening, but I am also doing some great surf related exercises too. They are hard to explain, but they are making my upper body strong too! I really feel like it is helping me pop up faster while surfing.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird