Finally back in the water!
After being sick with a cold and waiting for some swell to come to New England, we finally caught some swell yesterday (even if it was small). I am glad we went out because today it is FLAT…once again.
We surfed at “The Wall” in Hampton, NH where I grew up five minutes away and learned how to surf when I was fifteen. I love this spot and there were only six people out in the water. The summer time is a much different story and that is when we surf other spots.
(This picture is from Ralph’s Pics. I forgot to take my own picture.)
It was so good to be back in the water even if I have to put on my 6/5 hooded winter suit, 6 mil gloves, 7 mil booties and extra layers of clothing under my suit to keep warm. I sometimes wonder to myself why I suit up and want to go into the 39 degree water in 20 degree temperatures. After I catch my first wave, then it all comes back to me and I remember it is for the love of surfing.
After our session, I felt at ease, happy, and rejuvenated. It felt good to paddle around and get some exercise. It was good to glide down the wave and be one with the ocean again. My family asked me why I would ever want to go surfing in this weather and I can never truly explain to them. They don’t surf so they don’t understand the need to go surfing even in the winter time in New England.
We also checked out a new place in Hampton called Las Olas Taqueria. It was good after surf food. I chowed it down in about two seconds. I recommend it!
Pray for MORE surf!
Spread the Swell,
J-Bird
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