July 08, 2012 | 0 comments

SF Windy

7.4.12 - Secret Swell - 4th of July Slop

Time: Mid Morning (9:45am)
Where: Montara
Surfed with: Jacob, Chris the Red, Sarah McG (from Boston)
Swell Height: Shoulder High
Swell Condition: Sloppy Left Shoulders
Board: 7'10 Tweetie P

Session Highlights:
The swell was poor all over the Coastside. Jacob wanted to check out a less known spot that is protected from the wind. From the cliff it didn't look that exciting, but we had already made the effort to search for swell. Sarah was also here visiting from Boston for a couple of days and we wanted her to go surfing with us. She use to surf with us back in Boston.

Both Sarah and Chris were excited to be in the ocean. They both commented that Jacob and I have become too picky and that we should just be excited to go surfing. They are probably right, but my 2012 resolution is, "Quality over Quantity" in all aspects of my life: surfing, design, clients, friends…life in general. Also, this was posted on a popular surf forum: Old Guy Sage Advice at OB and I think about how my surf mentor can't surf anymore because of his knees. Maybe I should quit complaining and just surf!

Since the swell wasn't that great and crashing right into the rocks, my goal was to get one wave and call it a day. I didn't feel comfortable taking off on a lot of the waves because I am terrified of rocks. I don't want to get hurt or knocked out if I wipe out. I know how powerful the ocean is and it can take your life at any point. I know when to be cautious and today was one of those days.

It took about 40 minutes for me to catch one wave and it was worth the long left that I caught.

7.7.12 - Teaching MKB and Aerin

Time: Mid Morning (10:00am)
Where: Kyle's Spot
Surfed with: Jacob, Chris the Red, Sarah McG (from Boston), MKB and Aerin
Swell Height: Shoulder High
Swell Condition: Zippy Left and Rights
Board: 7'10 Tweetie P

Session Highlights:
Jacob finally convinced MKB and Aerin to go surfing with us. We needed to find a spot where the crowd factor was low and the swell wasn't too rough so Jacob could teach them.

They rented wetsuits and boards from our local surf shop, Sonlight. Dan and Robin, the owners, are really great and always helpful.

We drove right to HMB to search for waves. The JT was basically flat, Mirimar wasn't happening and finally Kyle's Spot looked good for both beginners and advanced surfing.

From the shore, the waves looked like they were closed out. However, when I caught my first ride I zipped down the line into a clean face. The shoulders were holding up and I caught a bunch of exhilarating rides. I am glad I brought Tweetie P because the drops were pitchy and needed the rocker for the fast drop ins.

Everyone had a good time and both MKB and Aerin said that they want to go again. I think that is a a good sign!


"All I need is a jet pack" -MKB




Stacked Quiver



Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

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