Keepin' it Glassy
8.15.12
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob
Swell Height: Chest High
Swell Condition: Rights and Lefts
Board: Maroon Platoon 9'0
Session Highlights:
I am starting to wonder if I should say where I surf only because the crowds have gotten heavier lately. Maybe I guess that is the curse of good swell action.
Crowds were heavy, but we got a lot of really nice glassy waves.
8.16.12
Time: Dawn Patrol
Surfed with: Jacob and Luke
Swell Height: Chest - Head High
Swell Condition: Mostly Lefts
Board: Maroon Platoon 9'0
Session Highlights:
Another crowded day but the swell was really nice. Fun head high drops into clean lefts. JJ chilled out on the beach because he realized it was above his surfing ability.
8.19.12
Time: Late Afternoon
Surfed with: Jacob, JJ, Emily, Max, Noah, Darren
Swell Height: Knee - Thigh High
Swell Condition: Rights
Board: Maroon Platoon 9'0 and Max's Orange 10'0
Session Highlights:
We headed down to Santa Cruz to meet up with Darren for his birthday. It was also our friend JJ's birthday. We planted a tree for him in our garden.
The swell was really small, but it was a really fun long boarding day. We finally surfed with Max and Emily! Max brought a 10'0 board and he let Jacob and me try out. It was very floaty and felt like a boat. I was able to walk up to the nose and back. It was fun to try, but I am going to stick with 9'0 and smaller. Jacob loved it! I spent most of my time on my 9'0 and walked on it a lot. We all caught a lot of party waves and shared stoke with a lot of grommets.
Comments